
My longtime friend Curtis and my new friend Juan hit Sweden hard for seven days, and they did it from a direction I had never seen Sweden from before.
Originally from Indiana and Ohio, respectively, they both live in Los Angeles now, as I did for about a year around 2003. Like an entourage of aging Midwestern rockers (the three of us are members of 90's indie rock groups Chamberlain, Brainiac and Metroschifter) we took to the streets of Stockholm last week.
As you must know by now, Stockholm is an expensive place to go out and have a few drinks in, but no part of it is more pricey than the area around Stureplan.
Inside, there's usually people dancing, somebody playing an endless feed of end-on-end songs that sound alike, and a line to buy drinks for the price of a good meal. Many places have an outside area as well, populated with people who are talking, have gone out to get some air and smokers. So much for the fresh air.
You'd think the crazy door price is designed to weed out the riffraff, but there is also a frontline of vãktarna (security guards) who do that. These dudes will either just wave you through or find some excuse not to. Your shoes, how much fun you seem to be having, whether or not you have girls with you, how old you are - all of these elements seem to be factors in the decision. Often, it seems the delay is designed to keep a consistent population in the line out front in order to advertise that it is such a great place. There's a line? It must be amazing in there!

When we got inside there was hardly anybody in there, and with exposed drywall and unfinished edges on the walls, the place looked like it was still under construction. It wasn't long before the place was swamped with people. It reminded me a bit of Louisville in that respect. It seemed like we were early by showing up at 1:00 in the morning.
Because of the continuous daylight, it's very easy to lose track of time in the Swedish summer. This night's rager lasted all night. Rather than taking an expensive cab, an unofficial "black cab" or the 45-minute night bus home, we decided to just keep the party going until the trains started running again around 5:00 in the morning. Welcome to Stockholm.
Curtis and Juan's approach to Sweden is a study in contrasts to mine. I take things very quietly and I meet new people essentially only through friends. If I can, I try to hide that I'm American (or foreign at all) and I keep a low profile. I think - no, I know - I still have a lot of Bush-era embarrassment about being American and I try as much as possible to not contribute to the loud and ugly stereotype.
When I do talk with people, I keep my English simple and clear. I honestly never take it for granted that everyone here speaks English and I never presume someone does.

In the back of my head I have this feeling that I can be in a shell for some period of months until I am fluent in Swedish. One day I'll just turn it on, open up and start talking. I realize this is an impractical and unrealistic expectation. Becoming comfortable in a language can really only materialize through practice.
I try to dedicate as much time as possible to studying, repeating and using as much Swedish as I am able to, but I always feel like I'm not doing enough, I'm not good enough at it, I'm embarrassing myself, I'm not smart enough or dedicated enough. There just aren't enough hours in the day.

I love comedy and laughing, and even though Swedes are intimately familar with American comedy, there are vast subtleties about living in America that I miss sometimes. These are things that can only come from decades of context. Almost all comedy is based on context, references and repetition. There is always some new "thing" that everyone is saying in America. It's probably happening here, too, I'm just not picking up on them yet. Funny colloquialisms are wildly entertaining to me.

Throughout the week Curtis and Juan were in Stockholm, I met more strangers than in all my previous months here. By "strangers" I mean people who were not already friends of my friends. Talking to new people... hmm, interesting approach.
While I've heard time and time again that Swedish people are incredibly shy and it is up to me to take the first steps, this is something I had trouble with in the 365-day-Casual Friday city called Louisville.
I don't have a conclusion to this story, but I suppose the point is that it was nice to see friendly, outgoing people in action. It was fun to meet new people and I wish I didn't think about everything so much and that I had more hours in the day to really study Swedish. However, my desire to have longer days is coming just as darkness is returning to the nighttime. Amazing, really, that I've been living in a place with practically 24 hours of daylight and I still want more.
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